“You have dark skin, you don’t need sunscreen.” “You’re Black, you won’t get sunburned.” These countless misconceptions that resurface every summer imply that dark complexions can do without the ever-present tube of sunscreen. Yet, Bob Marley had a caramel complexion, and it didn’t stop him from dying of melanoma. People with dark skin may not know the sensation of scarlet skin burning even at night, but they must protect themselves just like everyone else, with a few minor differences.
Dark skin, long excluded from the market
In the collective imagination, dark skin possesses divine protection against the sun, as if it had a superpower etched into its dermis. While cream or porcelain skin develops vermilion marks on the body with the slightest unprotected exposure, brown skin seems impervious to the scorching rays. It shows no signs of discomfort after long walks in the shade or days spent lounging on a deckchair. However, even if it doesn't have visible marks and doesn't require a yogurt -based home remedy to soothe its burning skin, the sun is not entirely harmless.
It's less aggressive, but it can still cause damage. Darker skin tones have a kind of built-in UV shield and are better equipped to withstand unbearable summer temperatures and sunbathing sessions on hot sand. The reason for this dermatological resilience is primarily scientific. Melanocytes, the cells that determine the skin's pigmentation, absorb between 50% and 70% less ultraviolet radiation.
"Although dark skin's intrinsic defense mechanisms against the sun are better than those of lighter skin, that's no reason not to protect yourself," warns dermatologist Dr. Marina Alexandre in an interview with Femme Actuelle . The problem: for many years, sunscreens were designed based on white skin. They were therefore completely ineffective on dark skin, and every application was pointless. This was a situation lamented by dermatologist Adewole Adamson, also a professor at the University of Texas at Austin School of Medicine. He pointed to the problem of the "one-size-fits-all" approach to sunscreen. Fortunately, the sun's rays have evolved, and sunscreen has made progress toward more inclusive formulations.
More protection against the sun, yes, but also risks.
Presented as a blessing, the visual symbol of a successful vacation, and also an appealing aesthetic feature, a tan is actually a defense mechanism of the skin. A legacy of seaside holidays and extended dips in the deep blue sea, a tan remains a persistent beauty ideal, a synonym for "good health." And people with dark skin, who don't need to bask in the sun or overuse Monoi oil to achieve a sun-kissed complexion, inspire collective admiration.
However, these skin tones, which surpass brown on the color spectrum, are deceptive. Even if they don't feel the tingling sensation that silently says "stay in the shade," they still suffer the consequences. "Melanomas can appear on certain areas like the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, which are less pigmented," explains the specialist. She also reminds us that dark skin is sensitive to UVA rays, which are also responsible for significant depigmentation. Hence the importance of raising awareness, regardless of skin type.
The golden rules for choosing a suitable sunscreen
If you have dark skin, don't just grab the first sunscreen you see in the supermarket or be swayed by Instagram-worthy tropical packaging. To have a worry-free summer and enjoy safe sun exposure, here's the ideal sunscreen profile:
- An index between 15 and 30. Not powerful enough for fair skin, it is quite effective on skin phototypes 4-5-6.
- A mist or gel format is preferable to the classic whitish cream that leaves even more noticeable marks due to the contrast with the skin. It's also more suited to the needs of oily skin.
- Non-comedogenic formulas that do not increase sebum production.
- Preferably, creams fortified with vitamin C to prevent pigmentation problems and the appearance of spots.
While many young people are shunning sunscreen to get a tan and go from vanilla to chocolate complexions, it's urgent to make sunscreen a staple in their routines. People with dark skin, who are rarely targeted by awareness campaigns, also need this protective shield.
