The question may seem to belong to another era. Yet, amidst the pressure to be "well-groomed," "chic," or "professional," makeup is still sometimes presented as an almost obligatory step for women. So why does this reflex persist when no skill can be measured by foundation?
Is makeup a shortcut to "professionalism"?
No job description officially requires knowing how to apply mascara. And yet, many women still take a few minutes each morning to put on makeup before going to work. Not necessarily because they want to. Sometimes simply because they know their appearance will be observed, commented on, or interpreted.
This pressure is all the more interesting because it rarely rests on an explicit rule. Rather, it's a set of codes: to look "well-groomed," presentable, elegant, "professional." Expectations that may seem innocuous, but which ultimately place an additional burden on women: time, money, and constant attention to their appearance.
What studies show
A study conducted by researchers at Boston University and the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute, led by Nancy Etcoff, is often cited when discussing makeup and professional perception. Twenty-five women between the ages of 20 and 50 were photographed without makeup, then with varying intensities of makeup. The photos were then shown to participants, some for a very short time, others indefinitely.
The result: faces wearing makeup were generally associated with greater competence, likeability, and reliability. In other words, makeup obviously doesn't make a person more competent. However, it can change how that competence is perceived. And that's precisely where the topic becomes interesting.
Beware of oversimplification: wearing makeup does not mean being more competent.
The study does, however, have one significant limitation: it was funded by an industry player in the cosmetics sector. The researchers state that they maintained their independence in conducting the work, but this source of funding naturally needs to be considered when interpreting the results. Other independent studies have nevertheless found similar trends.
A German study published in 2016, in particular, examined the perceptions of women in positions of responsibility. It offers an interesting nuance: while light makeup can be associated with a positive image, makeup considered too heavy can, on the contrary, produce a negative effect. This shows that even when it comes to makeup, women can hardly win: too little, and you appear "unkempt"; too much, and you risk being judged "excessive."
A bias is not a rule to follow
Faced with these observations, two positions exist. The first is pragmatic: since biases exist, why not use them to one's advantage? Wearing makeup can be a personal choice, a way to feel good, to express oneself, or simply to start the day the way one likes. And that's perfectly legitimate.
However, another interpretation is crucial: these studies primarily measure social perception, not actual professional value. They show that we still associate certain aesthetic codes with qualities like seriousness or competence. The question then becomes: why should these qualities be conveyed through women's faces? Especially since men are rarely asked to compensate for their lack of makeup with a grooming routine, a so-called impeccable hairstyle, or a carefully chosen outfit each morning.
And what about the law in all of this?
In France, an employer can impose certain dress codes when justified by "objective reasons," such as safety, hygiene, or the needs of customer interaction. However, these requirements must remain proportionate and not create discrimination. Specifically requiring women to wear makeup would therefore be particularly difficult to justify. And thankfully so: your face is not a uniform.
“Dressing well”, “being well-groomed”: are they the same thing?
The problem goes far beyond makeup. We still hear that a woman should "dress well" to be credible, "look chic" to represent her company, or "be more put-together" to project a good image. But "dress well" according to whom? And above all, why should these requirements differ based on gender?
You can love lipstick or never wear it. You can love suits, sneakers, dresses, bright colors, or the simplest clothes in the world. You can put on makeup for ten minutes, an hour, or not at all. Your body is not a communication tool that your employer can reshape at will.
True progress: the ability to choose
Attitudes are evolving, although the changes vary considerably across sectors. Creative and technological professions have often relaxed these codes, while some customer-facing roles maintain stronger aesthetic expectations. Remote work has also changed the relationship to appearance for many female employees: when the camera is off, it's hard to argue that lipstick determines the quality of one's work.
The answer is simple, even if the reality is less so: no, women don't have to wear makeup to be professional. If you like wearing makeup, do it. If you don't want to, don't. If you change your mind tomorrow, that's perfectly fine too. Your competence doesn't need mascara. Your credibility doesn't need high heels. And your professionalism certainly doesn't need to be painted on your face.
