Long lauded for its ability to set makeup, setting spray is now being called into question by Nyssa Green, a multi-award-winning makeup artist. According to her, this product, originally designed for the demands of television sets, is not suitable for everyday use at home. Even worse, it could disrupt your skin's balance in the long run.
A professional tool… repurposed for everyday use
On film sets, where the heat from the spotlights puts makeup to the test, setting spray is a strategic ally. In real life, the needs are quite different. Nyssa Green points out that these formulas often contain denatured alcohol and powerful surfactants, designed to set, smooth, and prolong wear… sometimes at the expense of skin comfort.
The result: the skin's natural protective barrier is weakened. The skin becomes dehydrated, more reactive, and tries to defend itself by producing more sebum. This vicious cycle can lead to excessive shine, more visible pores, redness, or breakouts. In other words, instead of enhancing your complexion, the spray can suffocate your skin.
View this post on Instagram
Subtle, but very real effects
What makes these effects so insidious is their immediate invisibility. Day after day, alcohol weakens the hydrolipidic film, the natural shield that protects the skin against pollution, bacteria, and external aggressors. The skin microbiome becomes unbalanced, the skin becomes more vulnerable, more sensitive, and sometimes even more marked over time.
In summary, repeated use can cause:
- Progressive dehydration
- An overproduction of sebum in reaction,
- A less even complexion and less comfortable skin.
Translucent powder: the return of a benevolent classic
In light of this, Nyssa Green recommends a gentle, effective, and elegant alternative: translucent powder. Too often underestimated, it offers a natural finish while allowing the skin to breathe.
Used sparingly, only on areas prone to shine such as the forehead, nose, or chin, it mattifies without feeling heavy. Thanks to its ultra-fine texture, it blurs fine lines, visually smooths the complexion, and doesn't alter the color or luminosity of your makeup. A simple, precise, and gentle step for your skin.
The spray is not banned… but reserved
In certain exceptional situations—weddings, photoshoots, extended events—setting spray can still be useful, explains Nyssa Green. Provided, of course, that it's chosen carefully: without alcohol, occlusive silicones, or harsh sulfates. And above all, use it sparingly, sparing off applications and compensating with repairing and moisturizing skincare products.
Ultimately, the current trend is clearly towards makeup that cares for as much as it beautifies. Mattifying BB creams, foundations enriched with dry oils, airy mineral powders, and floral water-based mists are gradually replacing harsh formulas. In this new vision of beauty, the skin is considered a precious ally, not a surface to be frozen in place. And it is by letting it breathe, respecting it, and pampering it that you will achieve a lastingly healthy complexion.
