The diagonally zipped jacket, inspired by fencing, is emerging as a new cult piece this season, particularly among Gen Z who adopted it via TikTok and reimagined military archives. This "fencing jacket" combines sporting heritage, Victorian allure, and contemporary cool, to the point of becoming the new obsession after the "tennis-core" wave.
A new fashion obsession on TikTok
On TikTok's most cutting-edge fashion accounts, a niche of young creators—often passionate about Japanese tailoring and military archive pieces—has brought this jacket back into the spotlight. Some unearth vintage models on secondhand platforms, while others create their own versions in highly desirable micro-drops.
@charrmode 🌟💋🫶 online tonight, 6pm #fencingjacket #buttons #ootd #fashiontiktok #leatherjacket #vintagejacket #avantgarde ♬ High Fashion by Addison Rae - Addison
From fencing attire to streetwear
Historically, the fencing jacket is recognizable by its side closure opposite the weapon arm and its short, structured cut, designed to protect the torso during combat. Today, labels like Sergi Studios and Tiat Studios offer selvedge denim versions, retaining the diagonal construction but pairing it with bootcut jeans and English loafers for a very contemporary neo-Victorian twist. This fashion piece thus plays on the contrast between technicality, sporting heritage, and a casual look, which explains its popularity with the "cool kids" of fashion.
@suprashihate SAMPLE FENCING CHEF JACKET ♬ som original - Ramleh
A recurring motif on the catwalks
On the catwalks, several fashion houses have already explored this territory, ranging from swashbuckling romance to a more sportswear-inspired take on fencing attire. Numerous brands have presented double-breasted jackets, plastrons, stand-up collars, and silhouettes reminiscent of either the Three Musketeers or the technical uniforms of track athletes. This hybrid of historical costume, athletic performance, and couture reinforces the fencing jacket's status as a future iconic piece.
By combining storytelling, cultural references, and its highly postable potential on social media, the fencing jacket ticks all the boxes for a cult fashion piece of the season. Its instantly recognizable nature, yet its versatility in minimalist or archival versions, ensures its longevity in the wardrobes of discerning fashion enthusiasts.
